Tuesday, August 30, 2011
Last month I told Pat Goodman about the mystery route knowing that we would be able to figure something out. He couldnt find anything either. I looked through many old guidebooks that shed no information. There was only one clue: a single angle iron bolt that had remained at the top of the route. The same bolts were on a route around the corner called Pullin Porcelin. I mentioned this to Kenny Parker and showed him the unmarked line in the guidebook. He was able to tell me a little history about the route.
The route was bolted and climbed by Andreas Audetat sometime around 2000. No name or grade was ever known, and the route was chopped because it was a little to close to Ovine Seduction which is the route to the right.
The climb had been erased from the books until just a few days ago.
Pat went out to investigate and see what the route was all about and stated to peice things together. We worked out the moves. The gear would be very small master cams, and offset master cams. Since it wandered so much it would have to be done on double ropes. Pat climbed the route first, a few days later I went out and climbed the route.
Keeping the history in mind and the unique process we underwent to redo the route it was appropriately named Palingenisis and check in at a very heady and potentially dangerous 5.12c. As we decided "Heady .12c for the solid 5.13 climber."
In the do not fall zone getting ready to place a purple/blue mastercam after the crux. Immediately after placing a very shallow scary looking but solid offset TCU. Switching to autopilot and getting ready to punch it to the top.
The only way to describe the route is a journey. It's very pumpy with finiky small gear placements and many do not fall zones. This route will hold your attention and keep you wanting another 100 feet of climbing at the same time. One of the best trad lines I have ever climbed.
Tuesday, July 19, 2011
Wednesday, May 4, 2011
Thursday, December 2, 2010
I would have to say my favorite meals were chicken souvlaki and the Greek dinner for two (a combo of a little of everything to share). However, among all our eating adventures we came across something special. This something special consisted of two things that I live for separately, but have never thought of combining them, for whatever reason.
The Espresso Gelato is possibly the absolute best thing that I have ever eaten. Just look at it, beautiful culinary genius!
On rest days we saw the sights, beaches, castles, churches, you know, old stuff.
Ok, so I quit my job and went to Greece. Went with Pat and spent all of October in Kalymnos, the new world destination sport climbing area. Kalymnos is marked in red below:
It seemed like it took forever to get there. We drove Boone to Charlotte, flew Charlotte to NYC and NYC to Athens. Then had to spend the day and a night in the airport and got a flight from Athens to Kos then a ferry ride to the island and a taxi to where our flat was located. We would have gone into Athens to see the sights but the locker fees to hold bags were outrageously expensive and we had already blown a few hundred dollars on overweight baggage fees.
Our first day we took a nap, unpacked a little, and rented a scooter to see the island and get the lay of the land. We spent the first days going to places that you could not walk because we only had limited days with the scooter. One area and route that really stuck out to me when riding around the island was Eros 7b+ at Arhi. What an amazing route and great into to Kalymnos.
Early on in the trip Pat and I decided that we were going to sample as many routes in as many areas as possible, we would stick to the three try limit rule. This gave me a chance to brush up on my rusty on-sight skills and I spend the month on-sighting 5.12s.
We did spend a lot of days at Oddessy moving from one side of the area to the other. Here is a video Pat made of Orion 7c+:
August I traveled to New Hampshire to climb with Freddie Wilkinson and Janet Bergman and their dog Tagger. Also I spend a week guiding for the Kismet Rock Foundation which is a non-profit that gives kids from the city that have potential but not an opportunity to learn about the outdoors and climbing. http://www.kismetrockfoundation.org/. What a great organization, cant wait to guide for them again next summer. On the climbing front, I went up there to climb at Cathedral Ledge and look at Liquid Sky, New Hampshires first 5.13, and do Predator (5.13b)at Rumney.
Heres a time lapse of one effort on the ole' Pred from Freddie:
Overall the trip was one of the better ones I have been on in a while. Had a chance to hit up Cathedral, Shagg Cragg (my favorite of the trip), Sundown, and Rumney. Hung out with good friends and met new ones, and ate great food. When I wasn't climbing I was just doing my thing raising hell, drinking, and what not.
Monday, August 10, 2009
Driving back from Bloomfield to Farmington, we saw some for sale. According to Pat, I got the full authentic green chilie experience. We parked the car opened the door and were overhelmed by the amazing smell of roasted green chilies. The guys selling them were all Mexican and barely spoke any english.
They take a burlap bag of the chilies and throw them in a rotating cage over a propane heater. One guy turns it on, while the other turns them like a rotisserie. It takes about three minutes to roast them. the chilies are thrown back in the bag and you buy the entire bags worth. Needless to say we have and entire cooler full of green chilies to take home. Yes! Can't wait to eat the food of Pat's people.